Query for those more knowledgeable than I.

Those of you who maintain your own sites -- how do you do your coding? I do most of mine by hand, but gave in and used AppleWorks to convert longer stories to HTML, just so I didn't have to search and replace every. single. symbol. The problem is that Mac has apparently discontinued AW, so I'm left with Word, which doesn't work for this function since it embeds font styles in every new paragraph. Does anyone have any recommendations, or do you all just code by hand?